Philips Sonicare Hx 6530 Manual
Products 1 - 50 of 93 - Philips Electric Toothbrush 300. Philips Cordless Telephone Owner's Manual. Philips Electric Toothbrush HX 1720. Philips Toothbrush. Philips Sonicare Rechargeable Sonic Toothbrush Specification Sheet. We want to make sure you get the most out of your Philips Sonicare toothbrush. - Removes up to 7 times more plaque than a manual toothbrush. This tutorial guide shows you how to open the Philips Sonicare EasyClean HX6530 electric toothbrush and repair it by fitting a replacement battery.
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Hi all, I would really love some help, and am really glad I have come across this website, can't believe I have never seen this before. I am a final year product design student at university in the UK, and I am designing a product which needs an induction charger like what is used on a toothbrush.
So my question is what do I type in to find a condmuctive charging component/full kit like what is highlighted in the attached picture? Also, could youn recommend any UK based suppliers of such parts?
Really appreciate any help on this. Best Regards, Les. After leaving the unit on the charging base overnight now when I press the On/Off button the unit runs at high vibration speed for approximately 10 seconds then changes to a lower vibration speed for about 2 or 3 seconds then shuts off. I am able to select the various modes available as indicated by the LED's (cleaning, massage, etc. Etc.) I have also pressed the On/Off button for 5 seconds while the unit is on the charging base and heard 2 beeps (although this action now seems to alternate between the On/Off button and the Mode button??) The LED's light and the unit activates, the battery appears to hold a charge but it seems to be stuck in some kind of logic that I don't understand.
I have also pried out the negative end of the battery to remove all power to the circuit board but no change. Can anyone tell me how to reset this unit properly or explain what it's doing? And what my next steps could/should be? Thanks for any help/information in advance.
Most of the time, only the first cell of a NiCad battery pack is bad. NiCads develop 'wiskers' which can be fixed/destroyed by running higher than the normal voltage of 1.2v across them intermittently. It is greener to try to fix it rather than replacing it. In this instance it was also much easier than desoldering and replacing the battery. I usually use a 5V wallbrick and some tape to attach leads from the 5V plug end. I was able to fix mine with the battery in place. 1.3V after I 'sparked' the bad cell with 5V.
Philips Sonicare Hx 6530 Brush
Taking the sonicare apart was the most painful part. It was a bloody affair after the utility knife slipped. The plastic also fractured. Now I have to make sure moisture does not get into it. Great repair guide re Sonicare Advance. I repaired 3 of them using the guide.
My two-cents: 1. Do NOT unsolder the pins. You may damage the circuit board. Instead, just cut the pins about mid way, to detach the circuit board.
See Note1 below. Putting it back: Use a 35W-40W small soldering iron with small, thin and sharp tip. Wrap then solder short thin wires to all the solder points at the device side, not to the circuit board.
Naturally, use insulated and thin small wires. Align the board and solder the cut pins together. This holds the board in place, for physical strength as well. Use more solder on the pins for mechanical strength. If you cannot access the inner pins. Leave them unsoldered. Now solder all the short thin wires to the circuit board, copper foil side.
The added wires help electric connectivity in case the solder on pins develops cracks. (There is whole lot of shaking!). As you can see, the inner pins that you did not solder, now has connectivity via the wires. Electric current is small, about 80mA, you can use as small a wire as you can. Make sure it is insulated though. Again, lots of shaking may rub away too thin an insulation. Use Xacto knife (or small thin knife) to scribe along the 2-halves on the inside of the screw-in head portion.
This helps to ply open the 2-halves without cracking the thin plastic there. The smoother that plastic is, the better. The vibrating magnet of the brush head rests very close to it. When gluing the 2 halves together, use rubber bands to hold them together. Use your finger to smooth out or clean out the glue inside of the screw-in head area. Make it as smooth and clean as possible. I would not recommend silicone glue.
It has ammonia. The acid attacks circuit elements and creates corrosion on circuit boards. Best is use acid free glue ('do not harm photo' type). One good example is Scotch Quick Drying Tacky Glue by 3M. You can get it at Micheal's or other arts suppliers. I use acrylic caulking, and use drops of Scotch Tacky Glue on corners and pressure areas to help holding the halves tight. The acrylic caulking inside the screw-in area is much easy to clean out, yet water tight.
It would be a mistake to glue this special area tight. If you open it again, the tightness may break the thin plastic here. All you need here is water tight, not glue tight. Use 800mAh or higher NiCad,.NOT.
NMH, Nickle Metal Hydride, battery. (Original is 700mAh NiCad.) NMH will work but you need to have the brush on charge constantly. Why not, when you can get cheap 2000mAh NMH battery?
You can buy cheap AA 800mAh NiCad at Harbor Fright, www harborfreight com. Normal AA has no tabs for soldering.
You can add your own. Battery is sensitive to heat, be careful. Here's how: Charge the battery first so that you can test after you finish repairing.
Add tape to the positive end, around the positive protruding tab, but not the positive pole tab itself. The side around the tab may have metal which is negative pole!!!
You may short the battery by accident. Taping prevents this.
File/sand the positive tab rough and shiny, or when it shows copper. Do the same on the negative pole. With a 100W-150W iron, solder a bare wire (24-18 gauge) to the poles of the battery. Or you can pull the flat soldering tabs out from the old battery and reuse them. How to solder it to battery: Wet the soldering iron tip (melt very small amount of solder on it.) The melting solder on the iron helps to transfers heat fast.
Add solder to the battery pole with hot iron. When solder melts, remove iron, fast.
Keep it under 10 seconds. Or let the battery cool down and do it again. Now add solder to the wire as well. Put the two together and add solder.
The solders on the wire and battery melt together quickly. This helps to limit hot iron contact to less than 5 seconds most of the time.
Tape the contact wires for now. Cut the contact wires to appropriate length when you put it in the battery cavity. (Length should slightly overlap the pins from the circuit board, to help soldering and mechanical strength.) 7. You need to clean out the battery cavity of the handle as much as possible (rid of the epoxy glue). It is a tight fit. Clean much more at both ends of the battery cavity, for easy slide-in of the battery.
Solder all other pins first. Keep the battery tabs taped. Battery tabs are to be soldered last.
After all done and tested, THEN glue the battery in place. Tip: Can screw the brush assembly to 1/2 of handle for testing. Wait over night; allow vapor from glue to dissipate, before gluing the 2-halves back. (It would then be airtight trapping all vapors.) - Note1: The circuit board is 2-copper-layer type with through holes. That means the hole is copper plated in the inside wall. Difficult to desolder and clean out solder.
You may damage the copper trace or the board instead. Note2: NiCad has much lower internal resistance. That is, the voltage can remain flat for prolong operation (maintaining constant voltage). NMH, though has much higher capacity, the voltage slopes down as it depletes. Furthermore, the operational voltage of NiCad is higher, at 1.25V, compared to 1.20V of NMH. The difference is as high as 0.1V using 2 batteries. The circuit is designed for a flat voltage at 1.25Vx2=2.50V.
If it falls below that, the circuit 'thinks' it needs charging. It blinks or may even refuse to work. You can overcharge the NMH, to higher initial full-charge voltage beyond the normal 2.40V. It fools the circuit that the voltage is high enough.
That is why you need to keep NMH always on charge, if you use it instead of NiCad. It is not the battery's fault. It is the design that specifically to use NiCad. Hi, poodyken and pinwah114, Here is an alternative. I bought from Walmart a Sonicare using replaceable AA batteries. It is about US$32-36. You replace the 2 AA by unscrewing the bottom cap.
It uses the same brush head. Now you can reuse your old brush head. No more rechargeable problems. And you can use external rechargeable as well. The external-battery-Sonicare is also perfect for travel. I no longer need to bring the charger, and no fear of bad battery while traveling.
Re: Replace battery but still not work. I encountered this initially, and wasted a set of batteries.
The solution for me is to fully charge the batteries FIRST, before installing. Then, before gluing, screw the brush head to the 1/2 of the of brush (yes, it can). Then glue the 2 halves together. (Or, you can use rubber band to hold the 2 halves together for the test.) As mentioned elsewhere here, there is a 'battery gauge' built into the electronic chip that needs to be reset after changing battery. My way (full charge before install) is simpler and seems to work so far. Otherwise, do the Reset as mentioned in the blog. What has happened to these boards?
The one that is real bad was a brand new, unused, handle that was still sealed in the clam shell. The other one is my brush that I have had for 5 years.
The oring was fine and there was no evidence of moisture on the inside. The batteries on both are fine, so it's not corrosion from a leaking battery. Why do the boards turn black, especially on the one that was never used, and how do I clean them up??